SETTING

The setting process consists of mounting the stones on the item of jewellery. This has to be done by a specialist craftsman (called a “setter”) whose work is essential for the technical and aesthetic success of the piece. A setting done in an expert way ensures that the stones remain firm and enhances their effect to the maximum.  
The objects to be set are fixed onto a wooden support, called a mould, onto which is applied a layer of mastic (a type of pitch).

There are a various kinds of settings, depending on the line of jewellery and the nature and size of the stone. 
The most frequently used setting techniques are:

ENGLISH-STYLE OR BEATEN SETTING

By a process of cutting away and flaring out, the setter prepares the inside of the mount in line with the size and characteristics of the stone. After the stone has been inserted, he proceeds to bend back a thin fringe of metal round the edge of the stone, using a pusher or a special tool called a beater.

SETTING ON CLAWS

The setter uses a burin to fix the stone, folding the points of the claw around the gem.

SETTING ON CUT CLAWS

 SETTING A PAVE'

This is used to cover a metal surface with small gems to obtain a uniform carpet of stones. The setter works with a burin, transforming the metal near the placement of the gems into tiny balls   (grains) which have the effect of holding the stones in place.

POLISHING

This is the final operation carried out on the object and it serves to give it a particular brilliance. It is an extremely delicate procedure which is often entrusted to specialist laboratories.   Generally, it involves the use of an electric motor with rotating brushes, to which abrasive paste and other substances are applied.  Such machines are often equipped with an aspirator which helps collect the gold particles scattered during the abrasion process.
After the brushing procedure, the objects are degreased in a bath of water, soap and soda and then dried using warm sawdust. 
There is an increasing use nowadays, of ultrasound cleaners, particularly in the field of industrial processing. In this case, the objects are immersed in a bath of special detergents and subjected to high-frequency vibrations